Sardis – A Classical Wonder

In our latest blog, Year 12 student Altan Mardin, who has a keen interest in archaeology, tells us all about his recent trip to Sardis.

Drone photography of Sardis. Credit: The Archaeological Exploration of Sardis

Atop the Acropolis, looking out at the expansive city before me, it was almost impossible not to picture the attacking Persians – Cyrus’ fierce hordes looming before the doomed Sardis. Sardis, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Lydia and the birthplace of coinage, was an immensely rich city both in wealth and history, populated by successive arrivals since the Bronze Age of many diverse peoples. As they settled there, they often recycled the building materials of the previous settlement, allowing for the rich backdrop that makes Sardis so alluring to archaeologists eager to analyse the inflections of many overlain civilisations.

During my time at Sardis, I felt as if I was physically living the myths that I’d learned about in lessons. It was truly breathtaking to see drone footage of the very fortress that Croesus retreated to during the Persian invasion, and I even saw Mount Tmolus itself, who in classical mythology is said to have judged a musical contest between Pan and Apollo.

My time there was simply unforgettable, and unquestionably the most memorable site was the synagogue, which takes up a corner of the Roman bath-gymnasium complex. As we entered, a kaleidoscopic carpet of immaculately preserved mosaics greeted us. Deft patterns and blends of colour mazed around the floor, while panels in one corner depicting popular optical illusions introduced a playful complexity.

The stunning mosaics are sheltered by an expansive protective roof, recently built to solve the urgent need for an innovative method of preventing irreparable weather-induced damage. While we were there, many members of the archaeological team were busy replacing lost segments of mosaics with arrays of new, locally produced tesserae –  a delicate and absorbing craft we could have watched for hours, and only one example of highly skilled anastylosis being practised by the Excavation team throughout the site.

Mosaics on the floor of the synagogue. Credit: www.thebyzantinelegacy.com

The whole team at the Sardis compound is deeply knowledgeable, warm, and energetic. Everyone I met was extremely welcoming, and keen to share the fascinating discoveries at the site.  A tremendous amount of historical objects has been unearthed and delicately restored, from a time-period spanning all the way from the Bronze Age to the Byzantine, and at an amazing pace thanks to the innovative use of new methods and technologies, such as photogrammetry and 3D printing.

Mealtimes were a treat – we’d all meet at a huge table to enjoy regional Turkish dishes and chat about recent local findings, and their context and meaning.

For any other students eager to get involved, I’d suggest first trying to determine specific areas of interest. For instance, on a visit to the British Museum a few years ago, I vividly remember being struck by the incredible precision and life-like qualities of the classical sculptures – thereafter I became very interested in the site of Aphrodisias, once home to renowned schools of sculpture, and still boasting many splendid marble pieces. I was fortunate enough to visit a few years later.

Archaeological sites tend to be friendly and accessible – in my experience, the team at Sardis was most open to sharing their knowledge and allowing others to enrich their appreciation of Classics. Sardis harbours innumerable fond memories for me, and I hope to return soon to again experience all it has to offer.

More information can be found at the links below:

The Sardis Expedition website

The story of Croesus

Sardis in late Antiquity

Dating of the Synagogue of Sardis

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